Hanoi

My favorite way to get around Hanoi was by bicycle rickshaw.  I didn't mind putting my fate in the hands of the driver, who pushed us out into traffic with confidence and skill, because the alternative, walking, seemed a death-wish.  I didn't enjoy the traffic here, as I had in Saigon.  Hanoi drivers drive much faster, and seem certain to run you down if you take a wrong step.  The streets of the old quarter are also much narrower than in Saigon, and the sidewalks full of parked motorbikes.  Feeling safe in the rickshaw (an illusion, perhaps, but still...), I could take in the scenery.  
We visited the famous Temple of Literature, a Confucian temple in the heart of Hanoi.  
Here is one of the many Buddhist pagodas we visited in Hanoi.  
Ho Chi Minh's body is preserved in this mausaleum, but it was closed the day we first visited.  Having seen Lenin in Moscow in high school, I was determined to add another waxy dead Communist leader to my list of, well, waxy dead Communists.  I vowed to return... and was not disappointed when we saw Uncle Ho in the flesh on our last day in Hanoi (a week after our first attempt).  The security guards were as much a part of the experience as the body itself.  

Karinna and I had dinner on the street, an experience I was determined to have in Hanoi. The food wasn't that great, actually, but the ambiance was wonderful!

My Son

Here is our group visiting the Champa ruins at My Son, about an hour away from Hoi An in central Vietnam.  The Champa kingdom controlled this part of SE Asia for a millenium and I'd barely heard of it!  Who knew that Indians came to presen-day Vietnam and established a Hindu kingdom?  These ruins are about a thousand years old.  The Vietnamese eventually moved in and the Champa kingdom ended, but there are still a few descendants living in Vietnam today, who have mostly converted to Islam.  Most Vietnamese, of course, practice a blend of Buddhism and ancestor-worship.  There are a few Christians and an interesting sect called Cao Dai, which blends the world religions and has wonderfully colorful temples. Fascinating!  

Hoi An

Hoi An is an old town in central Vietnam.  It's UNESCO World Heritage status makes it a draw for international tourists but it has long attracted visitors from afar, as a major stop on the old trade routes between China, India, and beyond.  The Japanese Covered Bridge is one way to enter the old quarter, where you find influences from across Asia and Europe.  There are several Chinese assembly halls in the old quarter, as well as many preserved old houses.  Just walking the streets is a treat, if you don't mind the Disneyland-esque feeling all the tourists add to the historic flair.
Hoi An is famous for it's tailors.  Just about every other shop was a tailor's shop, with silk dresses beckoning me.  We picked out styles and fabrics and got measured on the first day, and then returned for fittings until we had fabulous outfits.  In all, I got 5 dresses, 2 shirts, and a skirt, which I can't wait to wear but am not sure when I'll have opportunities.  Swanky Cocktail Party 2010?  
Every full moon Hoi An celebrates with silk lanterns.  We were there between the lunar events, but the streets were full of lanterns anyways.  I bought several and can't wait to decorate my backyard in Portland for all the summer parties I'll surely have when I return.  Shorts Shorts III, perhaps?  

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

Happy 2009! I'm back from two weeks in crazy Vietnam. My impressions of the country are varied... I loved the mesmerizing sea of motorbikes, especially in Saigon, where I learned to play Frogger with traffic and was thrilled with the adrenaline rush, as opposed to Hanoi, where it's a miracle I survived the aggressive streets. The food was great, especially the quintessential breakfast of pho bo and sweet iced coffee. Halong Bay was as beautiful as I'd hoped, and I felt so thankful to have the opportunity to relax in it's green waters. It was great to see Karinna and Michael and the crazy life they have in Saigon. We travelled north with Karinna's mom, on her first trip outside the U.S. Traveling in a developing country can be exciting and depressing, I find. After the high prices of Japan it is nice to feel rich, but when confronted with poverty or swamped with poor souvenir-salesladies, I felt sad and frustrated. The people of Vietnam seem determined to forget the horrors of the past, but evidence of the long war remains in the missing limbs and all-new gaudy concrete development. Having studied and taught the "American War", as it is known in Vietnam, I was especially interested to travel there, yet found myself feeling melancholy as I wondered how Vietnam might be today if we had supported Ho Chi Minh's declaration of independence in 1945. Overall, I'm glad I could visit this beautiful country, and wish I'd had more time to explore.
This is one of my favorite pictures, taken while sitting on the street in a miniature plastic chair waiting for this woman to make my fresh spring rolls.  The motorbikes never stopped rolling by, the spring rolls were delicious, and the stomach bug didn't hit for another two days...
This was my introduction to Saigon street traffic, on a busy Saturday night in the downtown Dong Khoi area.  Once I figured out how to cross through the motorbikes, it was fun!  Basically you just walk slowly and the bikes and cars all drive around you.  

I took a day trip to the Mekong Delta and enjoyed my favorite fruit, soursop, at a street market.  For more details on the Mekong and other spots on my trip, check out my other blog posts.  

For the full slideshow of my Vietnam photos, see below or click on it to head to picasa.  

Vietnam Itinerary

In case anyone is wondering, here is where I think I will be for the next two weeks:
Dec 20-22 - Saigon
Dec 23-25 - Hoi An (flying in/out of Danang)
Dec 26-27 - Hanoi
Dec 28-30 - Ha Long Bay
Dec 31-Jan 3 - Sapa
Jan 4 - Saigon, fly home to Fukuoka

See you in 2009! (or 2010...)

Mid-December

My weekend was looking rather uneventful so I went for a walk downtown. I visited a few shrines, the Asian art museum, and a new Starbucks (if I could only find another place to go with comfy chairs, good coffee, and no smoking, I'd go there). I saw the last of the autumn colors as I walked up to the Atago shrine overlooking the Muromi River, Momochi neighborhood, and Hakata Bay. I ate tea and mochi cakes as I watched the sun set over Fukuoka and finally taught myself hirigana with the flashcards I bought online last spring.

Hirigana is one of the three alphabets used to write Japanese. I have a whole new sympathy for my students who are learning to read and write one or two new languages! I teach a Korean first grader how to read in English while he is simultaneously learning Japanese and how to write in Korean. It's a wonder his little head doesn't explode!

On Monday night I went to a fantastic taiko drumming performance. I'm hoping to find a local taiko group to join myself! I took videos but cannot load them on to my blog for some reason... Stay tuned?

Tonight I met my new friends, Aaron and Yoko, for a fabulous tofu feast, and the rest of my week will be full of grading student papers before the winter break. On Saturday I take off for two weeks in Vietnam! I'll be traveling around with Karinna, Michael, and Karinna's mom, Anne. I'm looking forward to the tasty food and the beautiful landscapes and learning about the culture. Two weeks won't be nearly enough time, but here is a map of all the places I'd like to see. When I return, I will update the map to see where I ended up!

View Larger Map
I'll be back in Fukuoka January 4th. I'm off to Nagoya for a weekend on January 9th, followed by a week of final exams and entering semester grades. Whew! Until then, I wish everyone a very happy new year! I'll greet 2009 in the mountains of northern Vietnam thinking about all the new things I've learned in Japan, all the adventures I will have in the new year, and all the friends around the world I love so much!

Buddha adventure

Ignoring the freezing cold, I went out to the hills yesterday to find a giant bronze reclining Buddha. I was thrilled to find a snowy wonderland in the hills above the statue and temple complex in Nanzoin, just a 20 minute train ride outside of downtown Fukuoka.




For the full slideshow:

Nanzoin - Buddha and Autumn Colors in the snow!