Sapa

After Halong Bay we had a long journey back to the madness of Hanoi, which we promptly left for the madness of an overnight train to the northwest mountains.  Sapa is a town in the highlands famous for the minority tribes that live in the area and farm the rice terraces that scale the hillsides.  We heard it was beautiful, but it was so foggy on our journey through town and out to the Topas Eco-lodge (18 km down a windy, muddy cliff-side road) that we couldn't see a thing (although mostly we just slept on the ride to the lodge, not having done much on the train ride).  
The fog settled around us, so we couldn't enjoy the lovely views from the lodge.  I heard it was clearer down the mountain, so I joined two Swiss guys and a guide for a hike.  It was beautiful, and we met many people from the Tay, Red Dzao, and Black Hmong tribes.  We entered a few of the houses on the way, and I felt like I was in Madagascar.  This was the poorest region of Vietnam I visited.  Houses had dirt floors and indoor fires for cooking.  I looked at the children and worried about their respiratory systems.  Despite the soot, the houses were kept very tidy and in most houses a television set was featured as the prize possession.  I wondered what the people thought about the wealth, violence, joy, and sadness they must see on TV, and about the daily stream of tourists gawking at their lifestyles.  I also wondered to what extent people choose to maintain their traditions, or to what extent the economy or discrimination keep them there.  
Cows (or are they buffalo?) roamed the rice fields and didn't mind having their pictures taken.
In the village of Ban Ho we visited a school, hot spring and waterfall, as well as a government office were officials are overseeing a major hydro-dam project in the valley.  

After the long hike down we took motorbike taxis back to the lodge. I'd seen a few bikes go down in the slippery mud and was freaked out for most of the journey, but my driver got me home without a hitch.

Halong Bay

We spent three lovely days in mystical Halong Bay, cruising in a small junk boat from Cat Ba Island into the emerald isles.  It was wonderful.  
We kayaked, read books on the deck, ate wonderful food, and relaxed in the peace and quiet, so much appreciated after busy Hanoi.  
Lots of tour companies offer overnight cruises of Halong Bay, but we were happy with the one I found (from an internet search that led me to someone's blog): Cat Ba Ventures.  Our guide was nice (I think he had a crush on me) and the scenery was stunning.  
We visited a few beaches and a cool cave.  Sunshine would have been nice, but at least it barely rained, and the mist seemed somehow appropriate.  

Tam Coc

We spent one rainy day visiting Tam Coc, where a river winds around beautiful limestone karsts, a couple hours south of Hanoi.  
As on most organized day trips in Vietnam, there were lots of tourists, and lots of Vietnamese women trying to sell things, like plastic ponchos, which came in handy.  The boat ride was beautiful, but really wet, and it was frustrating at the end when our rower demanded a tip.  I was overwhelmed with guilt and confusion, knowing that a tip wouldn't cost me much but not knowing how much was appropriate, and frustrated with her aggressive request.  In the end we hopped off the boat to meet our guide, who told us not to tip the rower, who then gave us dirty looks and punched the guide.  

Hanoi

My favorite way to get around Hanoi was by bicycle rickshaw.  I didn't mind putting my fate in the hands of the driver, who pushed us out into traffic with confidence and skill, because the alternative, walking, seemed a death-wish.  I didn't enjoy the traffic here, as I had in Saigon.  Hanoi drivers drive much faster, and seem certain to run you down if you take a wrong step.  The streets of the old quarter are also much narrower than in Saigon, and the sidewalks full of parked motorbikes.  Feeling safe in the rickshaw (an illusion, perhaps, but still...), I could take in the scenery.  
We visited the famous Temple of Literature, a Confucian temple in the heart of Hanoi.  
Here is one of the many Buddhist pagodas we visited in Hanoi.  
Ho Chi Minh's body is preserved in this mausaleum, but it was closed the day we first visited.  Having seen Lenin in Moscow in high school, I was determined to add another waxy dead Communist leader to my list of, well, waxy dead Communists.  I vowed to return... and was not disappointed when we saw Uncle Ho in the flesh on our last day in Hanoi (a week after our first attempt).  The security guards were as much a part of the experience as the body itself.  

Karinna and I had dinner on the street, an experience I was determined to have in Hanoi. The food wasn't that great, actually, but the ambiance was wonderful!

My Son

Here is our group visiting the Champa ruins at My Son, about an hour away from Hoi An in central Vietnam.  The Champa kingdom controlled this part of SE Asia for a millenium and I'd barely heard of it!  Who knew that Indians came to presen-day Vietnam and established a Hindu kingdom?  These ruins are about a thousand years old.  The Vietnamese eventually moved in and the Champa kingdom ended, but there are still a few descendants living in Vietnam today, who have mostly converted to Islam.  Most Vietnamese, of course, practice a blend of Buddhism and ancestor-worship.  There are a few Christians and an interesting sect called Cao Dai, which blends the world religions and has wonderfully colorful temples. Fascinating!  

Hoi An

Hoi An is an old town in central Vietnam.  It's UNESCO World Heritage status makes it a draw for international tourists but it has long attracted visitors from afar, as a major stop on the old trade routes between China, India, and beyond.  The Japanese Covered Bridge is one way to enter the old quarter, where you find influences from across Asia and Europe.  There are several Chinese assembly halls in the old quarter, as well as many preserved old houses.  Just walking the streets is a treat, if you don't mind the Disneyland-esque feeling all the tourists add to the historic flair.
Hoi An is famous for it's tailors.  Just about every other shop was a tailor's shop, with silk dresses beckoning me.  We picked out styles and fabrics and got measured on the first day, and then returned for fittings until we had fabulous outfits.  In all, I got 5 dresses, 2 shirts, and a skirt, which I can't wait to wear but am not sure when I'll have opportunities.  Swanky Cocktail Party 2010?  
Every full moon Hoi An celebrates with silk lanterns.  We were there between the lunar events, but the streets were full of lanterns anyways.  I bought several and can't wait to decorate my backyard in Portland for all the summer parties I'll surely have when I return.  Shorts Shorts III, perhaps?  

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

Happy 2009! I'm back from two weeks in crazy Vietnam. My impressions of the country are varied... I loved the mesmerizing sea of motorbikes, especially in Saigon, where I learned to play Frogger with traffic and was thrilled with the adrenaline rush, as opposed to Hanoi, where it's a miracle I survived the aggressive streets. The food was great, especially the quintessential breakfast of pho bo and sweet iced coffee. Halong Bay was as beautiful as I'd hoped, and I felt so thankful to have the opportunity to relax in it's green waters. It was great to see Karinna and Michael and the crazy life they have in Saigon. We travelled north with Karinna's mom, on her first trip outside the U.S. Traveling in a developing country can be exciting and depressing, I find. After the high prices of Japan it is nice to feel rich, but when confronted with poverty or swamped with poor souvenir-salesladies, I felt sad and frustrated. The people of Vietnam seem determined to forget the horrors of the past, but evidence of the long war remains in the missing limbs and all-new gaudy concrete development. Having studied and taught the "American War", as it is known in Vietnam, I was especially interested to travel there, yet found myself feeling melancholy as I wondered how Vietnam might be today if we had supported Ho Chi Minh's declaration of independence in 1945. Overall, I'm glad I could visit this beautiful country, and wish I'd had more time to explore.
This is one of my favorite pictures, taken while sitting on the street in a miniature plastic chair waiting for this woman to make my fresh spring rolls.  The motorbikes never stopped rolling by, the spring rolls were delicious, and the stomach bug didn't hit for another two days...
This was my introduction to Saigon street traffic, on a busy Saturday night in the downtown Dong Khoi area.  Once I figured out how to cross through the motorbikes, it was fun!  Basically you just walk slowly and the bikes and cars all drive around you.  

I took a day trip to the Mekong Delta and enjoyed my favorite fruit, soursop, at a street market.  For more details on the Mekong and other spots on my trip, check out my other blog posts.  

For the full slideshow of my Vietnam photos, see below or click on it to head to picasa.