Sunday, August 10, 2008

It's a beautiful (hot) day in the neighborhood...

On my first morning in Fukuoka I had bibimbap for breakfast from this fast-food place in my neighborhood called Hotto Motto.  This woman speaks English and when I told her my name was Ali and I teach at the international school she got on the loudspeaker and announced to the kitchen staff that "Ari" from Fukuoka International School was here for bibimbap!  

When I ride my bike to school I go along this river and I can look back at the confluence and the point where my neighborhood, Muromi, is.  I live just in the middle of those apartments!  I don't have a view from my apartment but all I have to do is walk outside and cross a pedestrian bridge and voila!  It's less than five minutes to get to school, which is great because you know I am not a morning person!  

The hills in the background give Fukuoka it's name.  "Fukuoka" means "happy hills."  This river flows directly into the sea just another five minutes past the school!  Cool!

I have more pictures and stories of life in Muromi but I cannot figure out how to get the layout to look right on Blogger.  Help!  Working on it...


Apple Store = ATM


So I am at the Apple Store in Tenjin, Fukuoka, and have just solved a few of my problems. Or rather, Ichi has solved some of my problems!  (He's in the blue shirt on the left.)  The fancy Time Capsule I bought the other day will not store my iTunes and iPhoto libraries so he let me return it... for cash!  (I paid for it with my credit card.)  I also bought the cheaper Airport Express so I will still have wi-fi at home.  Then he helped me buy a new Lacie external hard drive online from amazon.co.jp (it was cheaper) and he helped me make a new iPhoto library on my regular hard drive so I could upload all my photos and thus share them with you.  Hurrah!  Arigato, Ishi!

Technical Difficulties...

I wanted to post photos to give you all an idea of what my life in Fukuoka looks like, but I am having problems with space on my hard drive. I bought a fancy new device from the fancy Apple Store downtown, but it's not doing what I thought it would do, at least not at the moment. The good news is I now have wireless internet in my apartment. Hurrah! I imagine I will be addicted to the internet, and thus this blog, for awhile until I have more friends...

Yes, the huge, car-alarm buzzing bugs are indeed cicadas! Kudos to everyone who correctly identified these creatures from my last post!

I have lots of stories to tell, and am sorry I cannot illustrate them with photos at the moment. Stay tuned...

So I did get to watch the Olympics opening ceremonies the other night, while eating take-out sushi (unfortunately not-so-good) and drinking a Kirin beer (unfortunately put me to sleep for parts of the show) in my apartment. Impressive fireworks, eh? I loved hearing the names of the countries as the athletes entered the stadium (first in French, then English, then Chinese) especially when the country name sounded the same yet hilariously different with each pronunciation. Since Friday night I've turned on the TV once to watch some of the actual sports part of the Olympics, and caught a Japanese swimmer winning his 100-meter breaststroke race.

On Saturday I joined some teachers and the new head of school for a trip out to the island, Nokonoshima. Lori, another new teacher, lives there in a house on the beach. I saw one of her giant spider friends and felt relieved I do not have that problem (yet...). We all took a bus to the top of the island where for ten bucks you can walk around a garden/park. There was a petting zoo and apparently in November the blooming cosmos attract visitors from all over Japan. I guess I'll have to go back in the fall because the postcards were lovely!

On the ferry back to the city some old men gave me a popsicle and then showed much embarrassment when their drunk friend proceeded to harass us all the way back to Fukuoka. It was the first time here that I felt singled out for being foreign. Mostly people ignore me.

Upon returning to the city, we went to Tenjin, the downtown area that has earned Fukuoka the reputation as "best shopping city," according to Monocle, an international magazine for rich people. It felt more like downtown Manhattan (okay, maybe a bit smaller) than my neighborhood, which is called Muromi. We went to the Apple Store and I was talked into buying a much fancier router than I had intended, but which is currently not letting me do what I want, hence the lack of photos in this post. Then we went to inquire about the Iphone, which has recently come to Japan. We found a big crazy electronics store and waited for an English translator. Here is what I learned about the iphone and cellphones in Japan in general:

1. Calls before 9pm are free, but after 9pm they cost almost 50 cents a minute!!!!!
2. Calls before 9pm are only free if they are to phones within the same network. There are at least 4 major cell phone companies!
3. Cell phone salespeople can be very tricky, even with a translator. They don't mention the details above unless you ask them very specifically.
4. The iphone costs about $80 a month with a 2 year contract. That includes the phone, internet use and voice minutes, but with the same restrictions listed above.

I don't think I'm getting an iphone. This is really a bummer because several times a day I find myself wishing I could look something up on google or wikipedia. I need immediate answers! But right now the questions is, which cell phone will I get? I will wait and ask the computer teacher at school, who has lived here for 4 years and is very helpful with such technical inquiries.

After our electronics adventures, Linda (the head of school), Lori (new teacher living on the island), and I went to an izakaya place for beers. We had to order some food, too, so we got these skewers with green onions wrapped in bacon. Mmmm. Then we sampled the shopping by checking out a used clothing store. They only sold used designer clothing, so we found shirts for $300! Whoa. Then we walked along the main street and picked a yatai place to eat at. Oh yeah, so izakaya means it serves Japanese pub fare, and yatai is the name for the food stalls that open up around 7 by the train station and along one of the rivers. We picked one that served ramen. Mmmm. Fukuoka is known for it's pork-bone-broth ramen. Stay tuned for photos...

Today was a much slower day. I cleaned my apartment and waited for the internet guy to arrive. My friend Lori came first and was helpful with the internet guy because she speaks some Japanese. She has not figured out yet how to get the internet on the island so she was thrilled that I had it and we spent the afternoon catching up on email, getting to know each other, and trying to solve this major dilemma we both face: Obon.

Obon is a major Japanese holiday commemorating the ancestors. It's a bit like Thanksgiving, I think, when families get together. It happens in August because that's when the dragonflies are out and dragonflies, of course, are the spirits of the ancestors. So apparently everything shuts down for the next three days. Now, I was warned of this by the staff at the school. No problem, I thought, because I plan to travel somewhere and tourist facilities are open during the holiday. In fact, many Japanese families at this time, too, so it is one of the busiest travel times of the year. Offices and banks are closed, which I didn't think would affect me, but here is what I've learned: Japanese ATMs do not accept foreign cards. Only the ATMs at the post office do that. Okay, no prob, you think. But not only is the post office closed during Obon, the ATM outside the post office is closed, too. So I have no way to get money. Japanese businesses do not take credit cards, unless they are big fancy shops like the Apple Store. Japan is a cash society. They may have the fastest internet in the world, but not all Japanese customs are technologically advanced. That's right. Cash only. And the ATM is closed. I have about 20,000 yen, or roughly $200, to last the week. And that is definitely not enough to travel. The trains are expensive! Hotels are expensive! Food is expensive! Everything is, well, expensive.

Cash only.

Shit.

So I guess I'm stuck at home eating ramen for the next few days. I can always watch the Olympics. Or read. Or ride my bike all over town. That's what I plan to do tomorrow. Obon isn't so bad, actually. And apparently I can get cash on Thursday so I can take a long weekend trip. Next week I'm still offically not working the school has some meetings and events planned for me. Hmm. Stay tuned for more details...

Friday, August 8, 2008

Bugs, bikes, and busy sidewalks...

Some more thoughts from today:

My first morning here I woke up to this crazy buzzing sound that I thought might be my air conditioning but the noise followed me on my walk around the neighborhood. It turns out there are these giant bugs that live in the trees and sound like car alarms. At first sight I thought they were birds! Huge flying bugs! They don`t seem to bother anyone, though, so I guess one gets used to the buzzing. At least I haven`t seen any of the tarantula-esque spiders that another teacher found in her house. She lives on an island, though, just across from my neighborhood in the bay. (See map!) Tomorrow I am going over for a visit. The beach is supposed to be nice except for the jellyfish...

I rode my bike to the school today! What a great ride! Just across a pedestrian/bike bridge to a road along the river less than five minutes to school! It was hot and sunny in the morning so I was thankful for the short ride. Coming home this afternoon it was pouring rain so I was again thankful for the short ride! I passed many bikers carrying umbrellas but I had left mine at home... There are bicycles everywhere here! I love it! I made the right decision not to bring my fancy road bike from home. Everyone here rides cruisers. The pace is much slower than I`m used to but it`s nice. Everyone rides on the sidewalk, which is extra wide, but it still can be crowded. It will take a while to master weaving through pedestrians and other cyclists. Did you know they drive on left here? I had no idea! So now I have to ride on the left, I guess, although there doesn`t seem to be such a rule on the sidewalk. I`m a bit afraid I`ll crash into someone! Wish me luck!

Right now I`m in a creepy internet "cafe" (there is free coffee and cheap corn dogs, among other snacks), typing slowly on a crappy keyboard in the non-smoking ladies-only section. Soon I will have the internet in my own apartment, however. After much fanfare today I signed another contract I couldn`t understand and I think it means someone is coming on Sunday to hook me up. Before that I have to go to the Apple store downtown and purchase a router. I also plan to look into getting an iphone! My dream come true! Anyhow, next time I post I should be able to upload some photos and let you know how to Skype with me, in case you are interested.

For now I`m going to get back on my bike and ride through the rain to get take-out sushi then go back to my apartment to watch the Olympic opening ceremonies. I`d rather watch it with friends but at this point I don`t really have any so I`ll try to appreciate the solitude. I`ll snuggle up with my Lonely Planet and plan my first adventure. Next week is a holiday (some sort of honoring the ancestors week) so I hope I won`t have too much trouble getting around. Apparently it is extremely expensive so that may limit my travels. We`ll see. Sayonara!

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Map


View Larger Map

Finally... Fukuoka!

I'm here!  It's hot!  

I arrived Wednesday night and was driven straight to my apartment.  The smell of brand-new tatami welcomed me to my new home.  What is tatami?  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tatami Interesting rules govern how the mats are layed down.  Most of my apartment has shiny wood floors.  The tatami is just in the "tatami room."  Makes sense.  

Yesterday I was shuffled around town by Kumi, an office assistant at the school.  She is married to a guy from Florence, Oregon, so she and I got along great!  We registered for my Alien Card and set up my bank account and inquired about internet providers and cell phones.  It felt strange, being totally helpless without her.  I signed lots of things that I could not understand, so I hope I didn't just give my salary or my first-born away!  

Last night I wandered closer to downtown and found an internet cafe where I got to sit in the "ladys only" area and check my email.  We're trying to get a hook-up for my apartment and I hope that will happen soon, but for now I must go to school or this "cafe" for my internet fix.  I took the subway to get out to the internet cafe, but walked all the way back.  I passed a thousand little restaurants and had a hard time deciding which looked like the best to place to try by myself, finally settling on one back in my own neighborhood that looked friendly enough.  Most menus have photos so you can just point to what you want, but this one had hand-drawn pictures of each dish.  Lovely, but tough to figure out what was actually on the plate.  I picked a bowl of ramen that turned out to be cold ramen.  Somehow I didn't see the ice cubes in the drawing of the soup!  I had hoped for hot soup, but it was tasty anyhow.  Finally I stopped at the market near my apartment and picked up what appeared to be shampoo and conditioner and a bag of Asian pears.  I had heard that fruit would be hard to come by, but there was a good selection and the prices were okay.  The only problem was the packaging!

Let me complain for just a moment here: everything is wrapped in plastic!  Everything!  It is so annoying!  I feel guilty about every single thing I buy because I am contributing to the demand for more plastic!  And I haven't yet figured out the very complicated garbage and recycling system, but it seems like most of the plastic is considered "burnable garbage" (which is picked up twice a week) and only specific bottles can be recycled.  Once a month there is a pick-up for "unburnable garbage" but I can't remember what that means.  They do pick up recyclable plastic and glass bottles, but also only once a month.  It seems very wasteful, but maybe I'm missing something...

My only other somewhat negative observation is that it sure feels strange going from the love I felt from my community in Portland to being totally alone and without any friends so abruptly!  I'm sure I'll make friends, but these first few days are awfully lonely!  Talk about culture shock!  I have fleeting thoughts like, "What was I thinking" but mostly I'm just going with the flow and taking it all in.  Today I am going to lunch with another new teacher (we're the first out of six to arrive) and I hope she will want to watch the opening ceremonies of the Olympics with me tonight!  (8:08pm, 8/8/8!)  My TV doesn't actually work, though.  Apparently there is cord I need, which is really annoying because it's not like I'll watch TV after this.  I don't even watch TV at home, where I can understand it!  But I do love the opening ceremonies, especially the parade of nations.  All the beautiful, healthy people from around the world!  It always makes me tear up!  And I love the spectacle of it all.  So wish me luck finding a place to watch it!

I haven't taken any photos yet, but here is a map of Fukuoka with my apartment and school labeled.  I hope everyone is happy and healthy!  I miss you already!  But I think I'm going to like it here!





Tuesday, August 5, 2008

5am

It's 5am, I've barely slept, and I'm not quite ready to leave for the airport in a few hours.  What a fantastic last few days in Portland!  What a wonderful summer!  I am going to miss my community in Portland but feel confident that I will be back.  Until then, thanks to everyone for their friendship and love!  And thanks to everyone who made it out to say goodbye at the Bye & Bye last night!  Hope to see lots of visitors in Asia!  Now, back to packing...